麵料織造知識:織針與紗支配合對織物的影響
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針織物設定﹐其中一個要素﹐就是用何種紗支﹐配合何種織針數。適合之匹配﹐對織物有著重要影響。
平紋織物之斷麵形態﹐中央為最高部分﹐亦即厚度﹐為紗之直徑2倍多﹐織物密度﹐被橫直線圈密度所控製﹐又與紗支粗細度有關﹐而形成覆蓋性﹐其定義為一個線圈所占之全麵積與紗支表麵所覆蓋之麵積的比例﹐稱為覆蓋性。
不同針數有著不同的針身厚度﹐其針與針間之間距﹐針溝壁之厚度﹐三者關係﹐必須配合紗之直徑。
織物幾何學中﹐一係列公式可計算出針距和紗支之關係,紗線最粗超出限製,將不適合該種織針及沈降片。
早前當列出平織物求針數之簡單公式﹐方便大家參考用。針數=開方(紗支x 20) 所得數為中間約數﹐可加或減2針考慮。
而德國GROZ-BECKERT織針製造商﹐製成一些數據﹐提供針數與紗支數配合表﹐比較方便使用。
(A)單麵織物紗支(英支)與針數關係: (針數為每英寸針數)
14針=8.5/1 s—–14/1 s
15針=10.5/1 s—–16.5/1 s
16針=12/1 s—–19/1 s
18針=14/1 s—–23.5/1 s
20針=18/1 s—–26/1 s
22針=21.5/1 s—–29.5/1 s
24針=23.5/1 s—–35.5/1 s
26針=26/1 s—–41.5/1 s
28針=29.5/1 s—–47.5/1 s
30針=35.5/1 s—–59/1 s
32針=41.5/1s—–71/1s
(B)起絨織物的紗支與針數關係:
12針=2.5/1 s—–9.5/1 s
14針=3.5/1 s—–12/1 s
15針=4.7/1 s—–14/1 s
16針=6/1 s—–16.5/1 s
18針=7/1 s—–18/1 s
20針=8.5/1 s—–20/1 s
22針=10.5/1 s—–23.5/1 s
24針=14/1 s—–26/1 s
26針=16.5/1 s—–29.5/1 s
28針=19/1 s—–35.5/1 s
30針=21.5/1 s—–41.5/1 s
32針=23.5/1s—–47.5/1s
(C)細羅紋織物的紗支與針數關係:
14針=16.5/1 s—–23.5/1 s
15針=20/1 s—–29.5/1 s
16針=23.5/1 s—–35.5/1 s
18針=29.5/1 s—–47.5/1 s
20針=41.5/1 s—–53/1 s
22針=47.5/1 s—–59/1 s
24針=53/1 s—–71/1 s
(D)雙麵織物的紗支與針數關係:
14針=12/1 s—–16.5/1 s
15針=14/1 s—–19.2/1 s
16針=16.5/1 s—–21.5/1 s
18針=21.5/1 s—–23.5/1 s
20針=23.5/1 s—–29.5/1 s
22針=28.5/1 s—–35.5/1 s
24針=33/1 s—–41.5/1 s
26針=35.5/1 s—–47.5/1 s
28針=41.5/1 s—–53/1 s
30針=47.5/1 s—–59/1 s
32針=53/1s—–71/1s
(E)提花織物的紗支與針數關係:
14針=13/1 s—–18/1 s
15針=14/1 s—–19/1 s
16針=16.5/1 s—–21.5/1 s
18針=18/1 s—–23.5/1 s
20針=21.5/1 s—–26/1 s
22針=23.5/1 s—–28.5/1 s
24針=26/1 s—–33/1 s